Central Greece, the heart of the Greek mainland, is a broad and diverse region for winemaking which is home to a quarter of the country’s vineyards which grow 40 different varieties of wine. The region is a lot more arid than northern Greece, and much hotter and drier in the south.
The nine Protected Geographical Indication wine zones
Greece’s indigenous grape varieties have been revived in recent years by the local vine growers and winemakers in their quest to preserve Greece’s viticulture heritage.
The nine Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) wine zones of Central Greece are:
- PGI Atalanti Valley – ΠΓΕ Κοιλάδα Αταλάντης
- PGI Opountia Locris – ΠΓΕ Οπούντια Λοκρίδας
- PGI Lilantio Pedio (or Field) – ΠΓΕ Ληλάντιο Πεδίο
- PGI Evia – ΠΓΕ Εύβοια
- PGI Parnassos – ΠΓΕ Παρνασσός
- PGI Phthiotis – ΠΓΕ Φθιώτιδα
- PGI Thiva – ΠΓΕ Θήβα
- PGI Slopes of Knimida – ΠΓΕ Πλαγιές Κνημίδας
- PGI Ritsona – ΠΓΕ Ριτσώνα
Over the past 20 years, Greek wine has experienced a renaissance with an influx of new winemakers and modern winemaking techniques.
White Grape Varieties
Savatiano (PGI Atalanti Valley, PGI Evia, PGI Thiva) is one of the most ancient Greek grapes which produces light and refreshing whites with herbal aromas. Savatiano is a variety little explored outside of Greece which is starting to make a comeback as more winemakers focus on quality producing richer, full-bodied white wines reminiscent of Chardonnay.
Savatiano is by far the most planted indigenous grape variety and probably one the most ancient ones in Greece. After years of being undervalued by growers and consumers, Savatiano is making a comeback as a catalyst for quality-driven renaissance as a result of some very fine terroir-driven wines with great ageing potential.
The aromatic Malagousia (PGI Atalanti Valley, PGI Evia, PGI Thiva), is a zesty, expressive and intensely aromatic wine rescued from near extinction in 1983 by a local winemaker in the North. Malagousia is best known for its citrus and peach characteristics, often showing various melon flavours on the palate.
Malagousia’s grapes can produce fruit-driven, rich-bodied wines even in hot climates. In cooler sites and on windy slopes it can deliver an explosive aromatic and refreshing character. Greek producers are constantly pushing the limits of Malagousia, creating a full range of styles and wines.
Assyrtiko is by far the most famous Greek white grape variety worldwide, that has perfectly adapted in many parts of Greece. Assyrtiko can produce very different styles of white wines ranging from still to traditional method sparkling and sweet ones from sun-dried grapes. Assyrtiko holds the unique position of being the only white grape variety in the Mediterranean basin that produces wines with high levels of sugar and acidity at the same time. Central Greece’s Assyrtiko tend to be fruitier and more moderate in acidity and body than those produced in other areas of Greece.
Other whites found in the region include Begleri and Chardonnay (PGI Atalanti Valley).
Red Grape Varieties
Mouchtaro (PGI Thiva) is a very rare indigenous dark-skinned grape variety of Central Greece. Until recently it could only be found in Askri Valley, where the old bush vines produce low yields of concentrated grapes. The high demand for white instead of red wines and the low yields that the variety tends to produce in the arid slopes under the mountains, are responsible for its near extinction, as growers favoured other local varieties.
As a grape that can withstand the heat, more and more producers of Central Greece have begun to grow Mouchtaro. Usually, the wines of Mouchtaro are monovarietals and in reds the variety shows good affiliation with careful use of oak. In some cases, it can be blended with international varieties. Tannins tend to be soft, and colour in grapes is rich, especially from old bush vines. It can boast a wide range of different styles of wines.
Mavrokountoura (PGI Lilantio Pedio, PGI Evia, PGI Thiva), native to Evia, yields zesty roses ideal for easy drinking alongside mellow but sturdy reds perfect to enjoy alongside roast meat. Mavrokountoura is named from the combination of the word ‘Mavro’, which means black in Greek and ‘Kountoura’, a clone of Mandilaria found in Evia island, with smaller grapes, deeper colour and softer tannins. The variety can be found under many different names in the central and south Aegean islands, such as Mandilari and Amorgiano.
This dark-skinned indigenous grape variety is preferred and widely planted thanks to its deep colour and firm structure wines. The grapes are naturally high in acidity and tannin, producing long-living reds.
Vradiano (PGI Lilantio Pedio, PGI Evia) produces fruity roses and rich, spicy reds. Vradiano is a very old variety that used to grow on the east shore of Central Greece. Its name derives from the Greek word ‘vradys’ which means lazy or arriving late, probably linked to the late ripening of the variety. In some vintages, harvesting can take place as late as October.
Though Vradiano is now widely cultivated, it offers a wide variety of wines as winemakers rush to explore its capabilities.
Click here for more information on Wines of Central Greece.
