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Rosé wines from Provence, famous for their light, fresh flavours and delicate, pale colour, continue to dominate the rosé segment globally. In 2022, production in the region’s three Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) production areas – Côtes de Provence, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and Coteaux Varois en Provence – amounted to 157m bottles, accounting for 38% of rosé production in France and 4.2% globally, according to trade body Vins de Provence.
Driven by their runaway success in the Anglo-Saxon markets of the UK, the US and Australia, exports have skyrocketed almost 500% in the space of 15 years. Total exports reached nearly 62m bottles last year, with the US the leading market with a 37% share, followed by the UK and the Netherlands.
In the early 2000s, Provence rosé would sell for as little as EUR3 (US$3.27) in French supermarkets, but the premiumisation of the segment has driven up average prices in the US to $20–$30 per bottle.
A reflection of the strength of demand in the US for high-quality Provence rosé was illustrated in June when Pernod Ricard’s US division launched Sainte Marguerite en Provence rosé wines in the country; the multinational acquired a majority stake in Château Sainte Marguerite, the maker of Sainte Marguerite en Provence Rosé, last year, although the Fayard family, which had owned Château Sainte Marguerite since 1977, remains involved in the business.
The focus for the US launch comprises two wines: Symphonie Rosé, described as a “perfect introduction to the house style”, and Fantastique Rosé, the only organic Cru Classé in the Côtes de Provence appellation.
Another clear indication of Provence rosé’s growing status was Moët Hennessy’s decision in February to acquire a majority stake in family-owned St Tropez Peninsula-based rosé producer Château Minuty, France’s best-selling rosé brand with an annual production of 9m bottles. The deal added another premium rosé to the group’s portfolio, which also includes Château d’Esclans.
Focus on growing UK market
The UK has a 19% share of the Provence rosé market and in May the Vins de Provence (CIVP) organisation launched a campaign in the country to cement the wine’s category leadership position. Created by Parisian agency Jésus et Gabriel, the campaign features a new generation of Provençal bartenders pictured against scenic backdrops.
“Our ethos has always been about creating meaningful connection through exceptional-quality wine and good times, and this campaign celebrates diversity and togetherness,” says CIVP marketing & communications director Carole Guinchard. “Our winemaking expertise positions us as the unparalleled leader of rosé in the global market and it is imperative to us that we retain our place.”
However, price inflation does pose a modest threat to the category in cost-conscious 2023, according to Jack Green, co-founder of London-based organic canned wine company Vinca. “The price of Provence rosé has pushed a lot of consumers away,” he maintains. “They are turning to similar-style rosés, like our Syrah rosé from Sicily – it still has all the hallmarks of the pale rosé style from Provence at a much more competitive price point.”
Nearly half of Provence producers now make organic certified wine
Sustainability is a growing concern for Provençal winemakers. According to Vins de Provence, 55% of the region’s vineyards have at least some sort of environmental credentials, an increase of 26% in the past year. Moreover, some 6,666 hectares (24%) are dedicated to organic viticulture, with 22% of volumes certified organic. In fact, almost half (46%) of Provence’s winemakers now produce wines that carry the certification.
Sea Change Provence Rosé, produced at the family-owned Château Pigoudet in the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence appellation, is typical of this new sustainability-focused approach by many winemakers in the region.
“There are two things that set Sea Change apart from other wine producers,” says founder Toby Hancock. “Firstly, our packaging, where we have removed the unnecessary plastic wrap around the cork, use natural corks, and the paper for our bottle labels comes from certified sustainable forests and is made partially from grape waste. Second is our charitable aspect – for every bottle or can we sell we donate to a range of marine conservation partners, with over EUR350,000 (US$350,950) raised since our launch in 2018.”
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